❗ADJUSTING THE FITLOCK❗

(We have replaced most of the fitlocks with Pop-Pin locks, however in case you need to adjust one of the older bikes this is how to do it)

Please try to only use fingers to turn the Fitlock adjustment. Right will tighten, Left will loosen.
Pull the lever towards you and use fingers to adjust
It may be sticky so micro turn until it is correct tightness
If not possible with fingers use the Allen Key Hex tool very gently - Do not force or this will damage the lock
Test the Fitlock can be easily locked/unlocked.
Adjust again if needed.

❗TIGHTENING PEDALS CLIPS❗

For the older style MTB pedals in most studios adjust the tightness of the clip using the small screw underneath, using the Allen Key tool.

For the new style SP2 pedal in Alexa, the adjust screw is on the top if the SPD (top clip) needs tightening.

❗SHOE STUCK IN PEDAL❗

Sometimes when the cleats become loose on a Ride shoe it can get stuck in the pedal clips.

Things to try:

Loosen the pedal clip by turning the Allen key screw to the left until the cleat/shoe releases (Remember to tighten again after)
Use a flathead screwdriver and Allen Key tools to wedge the clip open and release the cleat/shoe.

❗STRAIGHTENING/REPLACING SADDLES❗

To Adjust:

Use wrench No.13 (Found on coach desk & Stanley Kit at each studio) to loosen the nut on one side underneath the saddle.
Adjust saddle Position
Tighten the bolt evenly on both sides once saddle is in the correct position.

To Replace:

Use wrench No.13 (Found on coach desk & Stanley Kit at each studio) to loosen the nut on one side underneath the saddle.
Remove bolt and all parts attached to the saddle
Replace saddle and re-attach parts (See vid)
Tighten the bolt evenly on both sides once saddle is in the correct position.

❗PEDAL SNAPS OFF❗

If a pedal snaps then this will need to be completely replaced.
Assess the damage to the crank and thread inside.
If there is a piece stuck inside the crank or the thread inside is damaged then the crank will also need to be replaced (See intructions below)
Damaged cranks can be sent off to be repaired - Arranged through Micha

❗RIGHT CRANK REPLACEMENT❗

You will need the Right crank which has the plate attached (see pic)
Put the resistance on the bike all the way on (plus shifter to the right) - so the pedals do not move.
If removing the old crank - untighten the centre bolt using large Allen key tool from Stanley Kit. (needs a lot of force use towel on the tool top of the tool to save your hands).
Remove small screws from the plate and slide off.
Reattach the new crank to the plate, making sure it is in the opposite position to the left crank.
Tighten centre bolt slightly so the plate holds in place
Re-attach all small screws using smaller Allen Key from Stanley Kit. (You will need some patience here to line up the first holes, once the first screw is in you can move the crank to line up the rest.)
Tighten centre bolt completely - This requires a lot of force - turn until it wont turn any more and then use some body weight to make sure its super tight (Use towel again on top of the tool to save your hands)

Right Crank

Allen Keys - Stanley Kit

❗LEFT CRANK REPLACEMENT❗

You will need the a new left crank - this is the one without the plate attached (see pic)
Put the resistance on the bike all the way on (plus shifter to the right) - so the pedals do not move.
Untighten centre bolt using large Allen key tool from the Stanley Kit (Requires a lot of force, use bodyweight and towel on top of tool if needed - to save your hand).
Unscrew crank and remove.
Replace crank making sure it is in the opposite direction to the right crank.
Tighten central bolt using Allen Key tool (Requires a lot of force - use body weight + towel again).
Ensure the crank is tightly secured agains the bike, there should be no space between the crank and the bike. (If unsure compare to other bikes).

Left Crank

Allen Keys - Stanley Kit

❗RIGHT PEDAL REPLACEMENT❗

Using big wrench tool from Stanley Kit - remove the existing pedal loosen by turning to the left.
Make sure you have a new Right side pedal. (Check position of the cleat clip to know which pedal it is - compare to other bikes)
Attach using fingers, tightening to the Right
Tighten using No.15 wrench
Make sure pedal is tightly secured with big wrench tool.

Large Wrench - Stanley Kit

❗LEFT PEDAL REPLACEMENT❗

Using big wrench tool from Stanley Kit - remove the existing pedal loosen by turning to the Right (Note: this is the opposite way to how you would usually loosen something).
Check you have a new Left side pedal (Check position of the cleat clip - compare to other bikes)
Attach using fingers, tightening to the ‘Left’ (Note: this is the opposite way to how you would usually tighten something).
Make sure pedal is tightly secured.

Large Wrench - Stanley Kit

❗SPRINT SHIFTER CLEANING/REPLACEMENT❗

If sprint shifter becomes very sticky to move it will need to be cleaned and oiled. If it becomes loose/not 'clicking' when moved into the three positions it might need to be tightened or it might be warn and need to be replaced.

To clean:

Remove ‘stop’ cap, remove using a flathead screwdriver.
Use a Phillips (cross head) screwdriver to unscrew and release the resistance dial then remove it.
Use an adjustable wrench to release the metal lid
Remove all plastic parts of the shifter and carefully remove the spring and put it to one side.
Clean all plastic parts using hand sanitiser and paper towels
Spray with WD40 to lubricate the parts
Reassemble in the order they came out. Spring goes back in last.
Reattach the metal lid with fingers and tighten with adjustable wrench
Reattach resistance dial and screw back into place using Phillips screwdriver.

To Tighten:

Remove ‘stop’ cap, remove using a flathead screwdriver.
Use a Phillips (cross head) screwdriver to unscrew and release the resistance dial then remove it.
Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the metal lid (only if loose)

To Replace:

Remove ‘stop’ cap, remove using a flathead screwdriver.
Use a Phillips (cross head) screwdriver to unscrew and release the resistance dial then remove it.
Use an adjustable wrench to release the metal lid
Remove all plastic parts of the shifter and carefully remove the spring and put it to one side.
Replace with new shifter and reassemble
Check it now works

Stop cap - remove with flat head screwdriver.

Adjustable Wrench - Stanley Kit

❗HANDLEBAR/SADDLE FORE/AFT STUCK❗

If the handlebar or saddle fore/aft adjust knob gets stuck (cannot tighten or loosen the knob or cannot move the position)

Try the following:

Make sure knob is untightned and loose, then spray around the adjust arm with WD40 and apply force to try and move it.
If the arm still does not move you will need to tighten the screw inside the knob with an Allen Key. (Found in Stanley kit/tool box)
Remove the plastic cover using the correct size Allen Key (Open carefully as the plastic easily gets stripped and the key no longer works)
Find the Allen Key that fits the screw inside and whilst holding the Knob to prevent it from turning, tighten the screw.
Now you should be able to tighten and untighten the knob and adjust the position of the handlebar/saddle.
If this still doesn't work its possible that the mechanism inside is damaged. Report to Craig/Mechanic

Remove the plastic front case of the knob using the Allen key that fits

Find the Allen Key that fits this screw inside the knob and tighten

❗BOTTLE HOLDERS LOOSE/DETACHED❗

If the bottle holders are loose or have been removed, you will need to tighten with an Allen Key - There is an Allen Key tool with all the sizes in the Stanley Kit/tool Box. Make sure the small washers sit on the outside in front of the plastic bottle holder when tightening. (See pic)

❗BIKE WOBBLING/UNEVEN GYM FLOOR❗

Check to make sure all four feet underneath the bike are level
If needed adjust by screwing/unscrewing feet to change height

❗BIKE CLICKS OR SKIPS WHEN PEDALLING❗

If you experience a clicking sound or uneven feeling when pedalling this is usually caused by a crank or bottom bracket issues